How Bespoke Jewellery Works: From Wax to Finished Ring

There’s something very special about seeing an idea slowly take shape from a sketch to a ring you’ll wear for a lifetime. Most bespoke pieces I create begin not with a machine or mould but with a moment of inspiration, carved by hand in wax.

This is the heart of my process, a slow, tactile method called lost-wax carving. It’s an ancient technique that allows every curve and detail to be guided by hand, creating a piece that feels completely personal.

Carving in Wax

Each ring is first shaped from a small block of wax, using fine hand tools. The wax is soft enough to sculpt but firm enough to hold its shape, which allows for a kind of quiet flow.

This stage is where the ring’s character comes to life, the curves, textures, and gentle asymmetries that make each piece unique. Working in wax lets me feel the design as it grows, adjusting intuitively as light catches its edges.

Because the wax model is carved entirely by hand, no two rings will ever be identical. It’s this human touch that gives the finished piece its soul, a natural imperfection that feels alive.

Casting the Ring

Once the wax model is complete, it’s ready for casting. The wax is encased in plaster, and molten metal, gold or platinum, is poured in to replace it. This process literally loses the wax, leaving behind a perfect metal version of the original carving.

When the metal has cooled and been carefully released from its mould, it’s refined, filed and polished by hand in the workshop. If a stone is being set, this is when the precision work begins creating perfect edges and claws to hold the gem securely, while keeping the flow of the design intact.

Finishing Touches

The final stages are where texture and tone are refined. I might add a soft satin finish, a gentle polish or a high shine, depending on the design. Each surface tells its own story whether it’s meant to shimmer like sunlight on water or glow softly like the inside of a shell.

Once complete, the ring is hallmarked at the assay office to verify its metal purity and stamped with my maker’s mark, a signature of authenticity and craftsmanship.

Why the Process Matters

In a world that often rushes, the bespoke process is intentionally slow. It allows space for care and thought for something meaningful to emerge through patience and touch.

Every wax carving, every setting, every polish is done by hand, here in Cornwall. It’s a process rooted in tradition but shaped by the individuality of each person who wears the piece.

The end result isn’t just a ring, it’s a story captured in metal and stone. A reflection of time, place, and emotion, made to last for generations.

While many of my designs begin through the lost-wax carving process, it’s not the only approach I use. Some pieces are CAD-designed first, especially when precision or symmetry is key, and then carefully adapted by hand to maintain that organic, natural flow. Every method serves a purpose, chosen to suit the design, the materials and the story we’re creating together.

If you’d like to explore a bespoke piece, I’d love to hear your ideas. Whether you’re imagining an engagement ring, a wedding band or something entirely your own, the process begins with a simple conversation.

Naomi x

Bespoke jewellery, made by hand in Cornwall.

foundtreasurejewellery.com / @found.treasure