A Guide to Metals:

Finding the Right Fit for Your Jewellery

When designing a piece of jewellery that will live with you for years, perhaps even generations, choosing the right metal is as important as selecting the stone and the right jewellery designer to work with. Each metal holds its own energy, its own weight, colour and symbolism. It’s not just about durability or shine, but how the piece sits against your skin and suits your lifestyle.

Here’s an introduction to the metals I most love working with, to help guide you as you find the one that feels right for you.

Yellow Gold: Warm, Romantic, Classic

Yellow gold has a timeless appeal. It’s the golden hue most people think of when imagining traditional engagement and wedding rings. But even within “yellow gold,” there are beautiful nuances.

9 carat yellow gold contains 37.5% pure gold, blended with other alloys such as copper and silver. This gives it a subtle warm tone, almost a soft golden blush that complements many skin tones. It’s durable, the most affordable of the solid gold options, and has a slightly pinkish undertone that makes it quietly distinctive.

14 carat yellow gold is a lovely balance between strength and richness. With 58.5% pure gold content, it’s more widely used outside the UK, especially in the US, and offers a more saturated golden tone than 9ct, while still being resilient enough for everyday wear. It’s often my go-to for wedding bands or engagement rings where balance is key.

18 carat yellow gold is the highest purity commonly used in fine jewellery, made from 75% pure gold. Contrary to the myth that higher gold content means softness, it’s actually a more stable and luxurious metal to work with. It’s beautifully smooth when polished and allows for incredibly neat, clean settings. For pieces that are truly bespoke and carry deep meaning, 18ct gold is a worthy investment. It offers long-term value and aligns perfectly with the time and care spent on a custom design.

White Gold: Subtle, Modern, With a Cool Glow

White gold is often chosen for its cool-toned beauty. It offers a softer alternative to silver and platinum with a touch of golden depth. Many jewellers plate (add a thin layer of metal over the top of solid metal using a process called electroplating) solid white gold with rhodium, to give it a light silver tone. However, we want to embrace the natural colour of this metal and stay true to our values of durability, so that re-plating every two years is not something you’ll need to do. Your ring or bespoke piece is made to last and with a polish, will look as good as new.

9 carat white gold has a light, pearlescent tone. It’s subtle and slightly creamy, with a soft sheen.

14 carat white gold sits beautifully in the middle, with a calm grey-gold tone that feels both contemporary and classic.

18 carat white gold, in its raw form, has a darker, stormy elegance, more grey than silver, with a richness that develops beautifully over time.

All of my gold jewellery is hallmarked and tested through the official Assay Offices. If you’ve ever noticed a tiny anchor, that means your piece was tested in Birmingham. A lion indicates it was hallmarked in London. Each piece is also stamped with my maker's mark, a quiet but proud signature of authenticity.

Platinum: Cool, Heavy, Enduring

Platinum is in a class of its own. It’s a naturally white metal, often mistaken for silver at first glance, but when you hold it in your hand, you’ll feel the difference. It’s much heavier, denser, and incredibly strong. You can instantly tell you’re wearing something made to last a lifetime.

Unlike gold, platinum requires different tools and techniques in the workshop. Its filings are heavier, and its strength means it can hold even the most precious of stones securely. The tone of platinum is lighter than 14ct or 18ct white gold, sitting closer to a refined, muted silver. It suits those looking for something clean, cool-toned, and understated in its beauty.

Still Unsure? Try Them On.

It’s one thing to read about metal types but another to feel them against your skin. The weight, the way the colour plays against your tone or stone choice, the way a brushed or polished finish catches the light, these small details can shift your preference entirely.

If you’re still exploring, I always recommend booking an appointment to visit my studio. You’ll be able to try on rings in different metals, feel their weight, and find the one that speaks to you. Together, we can match the best quality to your budget, without compromising on beauty or meaning.